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Brewing Hop Kits

Brewing hop kits

My main objective in presenting this article is to assist our readers of this site (saveonlinemart.com) to be familiar with various equipment and devices necessary to produce your own beer at home. However, I advise you to purchase your own raw materials such as hops beer kits from your local shop.

1st step: Preparation of equipment, cleaning, sterilization before using hops beer kits

hops beer kits Brewing = cleaning. The best place for brewing is in the kitchen. Gather all necessary equipment to avoid running in search of missing material during brewing. Pour your favorite cleaner and disinfectant (chemipro OXI (sodium percarbonate), star san or other equivalent product), or bleach (beware of the smell) in the fermentation tank add water. Dip all bakeware (spoons, bubbler, decanter, test tube) for a few minutes. Clean the tanks, faucets and lids. Rinse thoroughly if bleach is used and dry thoroughly. One of the keys to success is cleanliness! The contamination of the brew with bacteria may lead directly to its loss rather than in your mouth. ( hops beer kits )

 

2nd step: Sterilization of the brewing water ( hops beer kits )

 

In order to avoid potential contamination of the must with dubious foreign liquid, it is best to sterilize the water that will be added to the fermentation tank.

To do so, just to boil the water with a saucepan or kettle. The amount of water to boil depends directly on the amount of beer to be brewed. Once the boiled water has cooled down in a clean and covered container (ideally the fermentation tank previously sterilized) in order to later add it to the concentrated must.  (Must is the juice of freshly pressed grapes, prior to fermentation into wine. Must contains various quantities of pulp, skins, stems, and seeds,) This step can be done the day before to allow time for the water to cool and also the chlorine to degrade naturally. It is also possible to directly use spring water in bottles, theoretically fit for consumption it does not require boiling. ( hops beer kits )

 

3rd step: Streaming  ( hops beer kits )

 

 

Heat a bottom of water in a saucepan, open the box of concentrated beer essence, put it in the pan to allow the concentrated beer essence to soften. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, boil 5 liters of water. When the concentrated beer essence is sufficiently liquid, pour it into the large pot of water. Entirely scrape the concentrated beer essence on the sides of the can. To get all the concentrated materials, you can pour a little hot water in and mix the amount of MUST already being diluted for kits. Avoid the maximum losses of this kind. ( hops beer kits )

 

4th step: brewing  ( hops beer kits )

 

The amount of extract contained in the kit is not sufficient enough, it is generally asked to add sugar in the MUST. The quantity to be added is indicated in the instructions of the beer kit, it depends on the type of beer, the brand and the quantity to be brewed. There is a variant to improve the final result is the use of malt extract (powder or liquid) instead of sugar that does not bring any body to the beer. You can choose a malt extract related to the style of beer or else use the blond extract that is the most versatile and the sweetest. Be aware that the powdered malt extract has a sweetening power lower than that of sugar. Accordingly, it is necessary to increase the proportions of 25% of the amount of sugar initially planned. That is 1,250 kg of extract for 1 kg of sugar. Dosages are sometimes also recalled by the extract manufacturers. Bring the mixture to a boil. Strong boiling must be obtained with good wort rolls. (Wort is the liquid extracted from the mashing process during the brewing of beer or whisky.Wort contains the sugars that will be fermented by the brewing yeast to produce alcohol.) It may be necessary to partially cover (but never totally!) Cover the pan with its lid to get a strong boil but beware of overflows. The onset of boiling is often accompanied by quite impressive foam formation. ( hops beer kits )

It is possible to restrain the boil of the foam by lowering the heat or by removing the pan from the fire if it rises too much. Consequently, the foam would disappear after a few minutes of cooking. During cooking, bitter scum can be noticed because it contains hops resins. It is advisable to remove this foam to get a less aggressive bitterness in the end. Some basic kits are too bitter and devoid of aromatic hopping. Accordingly, the result was sometimes difficult to drink without frowning. Let the MUST boil for about 30 minutes in total. You can precisely achieve another axis of an improvement of the hop kits by adding a quantity of aromatic hoping at the end of boiling. To make use of twenty grams of hop cones in a hop bag during the last 5 minutes should already do the trick. When the boiling time is over, turn off the heat and remove the hops if you have added them. ( hops beer kits )

 

Step 5: Preparation of leaven

 

( leaven is a substance, as yeast or baking powder, that causes fermentation and expansion of dough or batter. fermented dough reserved for producing fermentation in a new batch of dough. An element that produces an altering or transforming influence)

We will be interested in the preparation of leaven. To do this, fill half a glass of warm water (20-25 ° C) and sterilized, the temperature should not exceed 30 ° C otherwise risk of killing the yeast! Then pour the packet of yeast into the glass. After a few minutes it will reactivate and a foam will form in the glass, a sign that cellular activity is resumed. Leaven helps to promote the development of yeast and to obtain a more vigorous fermentation. ( hops beer kits )

We can possibly do without the leavening step and add the yeast directly into the cooled must in the next step but this does not promote the multiplication of yeast.

 

6th step: cooling the MUST, preparing the fermentation

 

Boil the water to dilute the MUST in the previous day (step 2). In that case since the volume of cold water was relatively large, the cooling would be faster. Pour the MUST into the fermentation tank, add the boiled water until the volume of beer is obtained (indicated on the hops beer kits ).

There are several wort cooling techniques (natural method, cooling coil, plate heat exchanger). In any case, it is important to cool the must as soon as possible because infections are easily formed at temperatures between 20 and 70 ° C. As we travel through these temperatures during cooling, it is very important to use clean and sterile materials.

Natural cooling can be long and perilous for the must then exposed to an increased risk of infection as long as it is not fermented. If you opt for this method gently transfer the hot mash and boiled water into the fermenter then close it hermetically. Place it in a cool place and of course sow it as quickly as possible once the must has cooled down.

If you are equipped with a cooling coil, plunge it into the wort pan 10 minutes before the end of boiling to sterilize it. If it does not return, it is possible to cool in the fermentation tank, pour in the boiling must and the boiling water. Then connect one end of the hose to the cold water faucet. The other pipe is placed in a large bucket or sink. Open the tap, the water circulates in the coil and cools the must by heat exchange. Control the temperature of the must to reach a temperature of about 20 ° C. Shake slightly to make the temperature uniform. Once the must has cooled, remove the cooling coil.

It is possible to add the yeast to the must when the temperature is lower than 25 ° C without risk of killing it. Then mix well with a large disinfected spatula to aerate the wort to the maximum (the yeast needs oxygen for its cellular activity). If you have a density meter it is the right time to take the contents of a test tube of must for the next step, a few drops will suffice if you have a refractometer. Then cover the tank with the lid and place the bubbler in the hole provided for this purpose.

Step 7: Measuring Initial Density

The density of the must is measured using a density meter or a refractometer. Pour the sample taken into a sufficiently filled test tube in order to have a correct density measurement at the density meter or to deposit a few drops on the prism of the refractometer. Do not return the must taken to the tank to avoid contamination. The measurement of density before fermentation will make it possible to know the sugar content initially present (initial density), but it will also be useful to know the final alcohol content of the beer. The higher the initial density, the stronger the beer will be in alcohol.

 

Fermentation

 

Place the fermentation tank in a dry, clean, low light and at a fairly constant temperature between 18 and 22 ° C in the case of a high fermentation yeast.

Some yeasts develop unpleasant flavors above these temperatures. If the temperature is below 18 ° C, the yeast will probably stop working and fermentation will be interrupted. For a low fermentation yeast, place the tank at a temperature between 10 and 15 ° C. Too strong a temperature will not be favorable for the taste and a too low temperature will not allow a good development of the yeasts.Moderately fill the bubbler with water and chemipro or with a strong alcohol and place the small red cap on it (it is not an airtight cap).

The fermentation of beer undergoes a unique process that obeys the life cycle of the yeast, for practical reasons it is often distinguished in 3 phases.

 

1- The phase of breathing or adaptation (in English “lag time”)

 

Duration: a few hours to a day at the temperature required by the yeast used.

During the first hours (this can last up to 24 hours if the yeast dose is too low or the yeast is not very fit) following the inoculation of the must by the yeast, the presence of oxygen allows the cell multiplication of yeasts, the oxygenation of the must, the health and the type of yeast as well as the temperature are important kinetic factors. It is the breathing and multiplication phase of aerobic yeasts (presence of oxygen). It is during this first stage that brown and creamy foam (kräusen) are visible from the outside and are formed on the surface of the fermenter. Do not froth up this foam. It is a normal activity of the yeast and also a good indicator of the progress of the fermentation.

 

2- The primary fermentation phase also called tumultuous fermentation (in English “primary” or  “log phase”)

 

Duration: a few days to a week at the temperature required by the yeast used. Oxygen has been consumed, the yeasts in suspension in the must are found in anaerobic, they continue to multiply until reaching the maximum population and now degrade carbohydrates by a fermentative metabolism (glycolysis) which leads to the formation of ethanol and CO2.

It is during this time that the fermentation will be the most active because the presence of maximum fermentable sugars. The activity of the yeast releases a lot of CO2 which causes incessant “gurgles” in the bubbler, sign that the fermentation is going well. Check the water level in the bubbler from time to time and add if necessary. Krausen is always visible on the surface of the must in fermentation. It can be seen the high pressure in the bucket, the levels of the bubbler are not equivalent. Progressively the activity will begin to reduce and there is not too much “gurgling” in the bubbler and the lid of the tank is not too bulging by pressure. We can also see that the levels of the bubbler are roughly equivalent. The fermentation is nevertheless not over and it is important not to bottle immediately!

 

Optional step: Tank transfer

 

It is also after this primary fermentation stage that it is possible to carry out a tank transfer in order to remove some of the dead yeasts at the bottom of the tank, but also to remove the residues of the brewing (hops, coagulated proteins). and fermentation (kräusen). This allows for a clearer beer and less deposit in the bottoms, especially if the bucket is not handled carefully before bottling. But this tank transfer is quite controversial because it exposes the beer to a risk of contamination and oxidation. The transfer is optional given the relatively short fermentation time for a low or medium fermentation high fermentation brew there is little chance of transmitting false taste to beer linked for example to the autolysis of yeast. The transfer will be rather useful in the case of low fermentation beers and high fermentation beers with high density because the secondary fermentation times will be more important. In all cases it will be necessary to perform later a vat transfer before bottling.

Note the brown traces of kräusen on the top of the bucket. The bottom of the tank is composed of yeast deposit, hop residues and coagulated malt proteins.

 

Here’s how to proceed if you want to perform a tank transfer:

 

– Disinfect the faucet of the tank.

– Disinfect the end of the hose and the second bucket of fermentation.

– Place the hose on the tap (avoids the oxidation of the beer).

– Remove the bubbler (otherwise suction of the liquid!)

– Empty the beer in the second bucket, if the deposit passes it does not matter there will be a second transfer before bottling.

– Replace the lid and the bubbler.

Attention to the bubbler during the displacement of the bucket of fermentation, the deformations of the plastic cause an aspiration of its contents in the tank! It is better to remove it for the maneuver.

 

3- The secondary fermentation phase or stationary phase.

 

Duration: 2 to 3 weeks at the temperature required by the yeast used + possibly 1 week of cold storage at very low temperature.

Once the fermentation is well advanced, the yeast begins to feel the lack of fermentable materials, the activity is thus found gradually reduced and the yeast is found to consume sugars more difficult to transform like maltotriose. In addition, certain undesirable components such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde are reabsorbed during this quieter fermentation phase. The yeast begins to enter the rest phase and sinks into the bottom of the fermentation tank to create sediment. During the sedimentation phase, the yeast produces glycogen which keeps it dormant. The activity does not cause much or no “glouglou” in the bubbler, it is normal and it is not necessary to add sugar or yeast to restart the fermentation at this stage. ( hops beer kits )

 

Optional step: cold guard phase or cold crash

 

In the last days before bottling it is interesting to keep the beer at a very low temperature (minimum 2 ° C), if we have such conditions, to sediment the maximum of yeasts and residues such as hops of a dry hopping for example. This operation can be done quickly in the refrigerator or by taking a little more time in a cold place (cellar, garage, igloo …). ( hops beer kits )

The secondary fermentation can take between two weeks and a month, it is a step not to neglect that allows to finish the fermentation of the beer quietly. So that the fermentation can continue its process, I leave the tank still 2 weeks warm because it happens that the fermentation is slightly revived after the transfer of optional tank (I do it because the displacement of the bucket between the apartment and the cellar stirs too much deposit and gives me a cloudy beer). Then I go down the bucket to the cellar (between 10 and 17 ° C depending on the season) for 2-3 weeks for the beer to clear and yeasts sediment. For a low fermentation beer all the fermentation takes place in the cellar between 10 and 15 °C. ( hops beer kits )

 

Bottling Stage

 

The bottling allows to keep the beer in order to be able to drink it in the future. Fermentation turns sugar into alcohol and CO2. The purpose of the re fermentation in bottle is to dissolve the CO2 in the beer (carbonation) because it remains this time locked in the bottle encapsulated. To allow the re fermentation and therefore a good carbonation, we must add sugar. The higher the concentration, the stronger the carbonation and the more sparkling beer will be. For this step I gather a sufficient number of bottles of various sizes and types according to my needs. All bottles are then soaked in a solution of active oxygen disinfectant (chemipro OXI) to avoid any problem of infection in the bottle.

Before bottling it is necessary to carry out a bucket transfer in order to remove all the fermentation residues. This allows for a clearer beer and a lower deposit in bottles. The method is the same as that described in the previous step for the transition from primary to secondary fermentation. During this step it is also possible to take a beer sample to carry out a density measurement. This should normally be at its minimum (between 1015 and 1005 depending on the yeasts) because the fermentable sugars must now all be converted into alcohol by the yeasts. The difference between the initial and final densities gives a small calculation an estimate of the alcohol content in the beer. A calculation tool is also available: How to measure the alcohol content in beer?

After racking the beer into the second disinfected bucket, prepare some sugar syrup according to the dosage you want to have. For 20L of beer at 6g / L of sugar I dilute 120g of sugar in 1 / 2L of boiling water. I let it cool a little then I gently add the syrup into the bucket while stirring without oxygenating too much. It is generally advisable to add between 5 and 10 grams of sugar per liter of beer. With 6g / L, the result is very satisfying, the beer is sparkling.

It is advisable not to abuse the dose of sugar during bottling otherwise the bottle may explode or empty itself when it opens!

Once the bottles are filled, capsulate them with the help of the capper. Beware there are two standard capsules, the diameter 26mm for small bottles (25, 33 and 50cL) and the diameter 29mm for large bottles type  (37.5 and 75cL). Mechanical stopper bottles are also very popular with amateur brewers.  These bottles again are reusable for how many times you want.  You need to check from time to time the state of rubbers to be disinfected with bottles before use.

 

The re fermentation

Place the bottles upright in a cool place and at a stable temperature between 20 and 25 ° C. Let it rest for 2-3 weeks until the fermentation in bottles is done well. The sugar introduced during the bottling will allow the yeasts to continue their process and this time the remaining gas enclosed in the bottle, will mix with the beer thus making it gaseous. It can be noticed that the re fermentation goes well by the presence of a deposit of yeast (lie) in the bottom of the bottles.

Once you have encapsulated the beer in bottles, the ideal place for storing the bottles is in a cool, dry and protected area from light, such as a cellar or garage.

After the period of re fermentation, the beer would be drinkable. But this is where you have to be patient and wait for the beer to complete in bottles. A longer period of care (1 to 2 months) will only refine the taste of the beer, making it less harsh. It is possible to keep bottled beer for over a year, especially for brown beers that are high in alcohol. The taste in the long run will be less bitter and tend towards the maderisation, to try! Patience and perseverance are the secrets of the brewer … on this, good brewing! ( hops beer kits )

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Brewing beer tutorial – Discover How easy it is to brew your own

Brewing beer tutorial – Discover How easy it is to brew your own

Amateur brewing involves making beer at home or in a recreational setting. Here are questions that are commonly asked and that describe this passion.

Brewing beer tutorial There are two ways to do this:

• follow an already established recipe from hops beer kits, malt extract or any grain.

• create your own recipes by selecting the ingredients yourself.

Then everything is a question of research, motivation, equipment and organization to embark on the adventure of amateur brewing.

 

In this brewing beer tutorial you will understand what is essential material you require.

The essential material for making beer is quite basic, a saucepan and a bucket of fermentation may be enough at the beginning for a hop kit (home brew Beer kit). Then by changing the manufacturing process it will be necessary to add some elements such as a cooler, a thermometer, a density meter, a second fermentation tank … The final step, brewing all grain, will require a malt mill and a filter, some amateur brewers will even mess around with a home brewing machine  because of its modest size compared to the volumes of industrial breweries.

 

How long is this process in this brewing beer tutorial?

The brewing and all the operations preceding the fermentation last between 2 and 7 hours according to the method of manufacture. Then comes the fermentation phase which lasts between 2 and 3 weeks. Finally the re-fermentation and maturation in bottles lasts approximately 2 months. The beer can be kept over 1 year in bottles. The master word of the brewer is “patience”.

The ideal place to make beer is the kitchen or a ventilated room sufficiently equipped with water. The material can be quite bulky and the manufacturing process a little messy according to the method used. There are people prefer making beer with any grain in a studio. Everything is a question of organization.

The main source of feedstock and material is going to be stores and online sales sites specializing in amateur brewing. Many materials can be tinkered and recovered. The community of amateur brewers is full of ideas of all kinds to build his installation.

Beers of high and low fermentation, after all types and colors are possible (abbey, brown, blonde, amber, stout, white, etc …). There is a fairly impressive array of beer recipe kits. It is also possible to create your own beer recipes or to take inspiration from existing beers. Creativity is a master word of the amateur brewer.

About alcohol content …..

The alcohol content obviously depends on the type of beer produced and its concentration of fermentable sugars. To measure it using a tool called density meter cost around $5.00 which allows to measure sugar levels before and after fermentation. In general the rate is between 5 and 10 ° alcohol by volume.

Homemade beer is relatively comparable to industrial and craft beers and sometimes has nothing to envy. It is possible to brew at home very good beers. To make beers drink to his entourage and to have good returns is always rewarding and presents a motivating factor.

Completely, fermentation is a natural reaction that can occur anywhere in nature and can not be controlled, so it is not prohibited in France unlike distillation. We can brew beer at home without problems and ferment in a private setting. On the other hand, the transport of large quantities of alcohol and the sale of beer are subject to regulations and customs duties.

Just be passionate, learn about the subject and start brewing starting with the basics like hop kits. Creativity, patience and curiosity are essential for success, but you also need to learn, exchange ideas with the amateur brewing community to continually improve its products. I created the site Universe Beer in order to share and promote this passion for beer and amateur brewing.

 

 

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Beer alcohol content measurement

Beer alcohol content measurement

To determine the alcohol content of the beer, the measurement of the MUST density before and after fermentation is used.

beer alcohol content measurementBeer alcohol content measurement. Only $5.00 Free shipping  Density is the measurement of the weight of a liquid relative to that of water, that is to say 1 kg per liter. The instrument used for this measurement is called a density meter. It is an object that depending on the floating height indicates the density of the liquid. The must is particularly concentrated in sugars, after introduction of yeast, it will turn the sugar (glucose) into alcohol (ethanol) and carbon dioxide (CO2) according to the equation: C6H1206 => 2 (CH3CH2OH) + 2 (CO2).

You can determine the molar mass of the ethanol molecule (46.0688) and the carbon dioxide molecule (44.0098). So for 1g of CO2 that escapes from the fermentation tank, there is formation of 1.05g of alcohol. You can compare the initial density and the final density by subtracting the two.

For example, if the initial density was 1.06 and the final density 1.02 the difference would be 0.04kg / L. Then we multiply that number by 1.05 to get the mass of alcohol in the tank, which gives us 0.042kg / L. Now that we know the final mass of the solution (1.02kg / L) and the mass of alcohol (0.042kg / L), we can calculate the percentage of alcohol by mass by dividing the two. This gives 0.042 / 1.02 = 0.041 or 4.1%. It is important to note that the percentage of alcohol per mass is greater than the percentage of alcohol by volume. This is because an equivalent mass of alcohol occupies more space than would water. Thus, to convert the% alcohol by mass to% alcohol by volume it is sufficient to divide it by the density of the alcohol (0.795).

In our example we obtain 4.1 / 0, 795 = 5.2% alc. Flight.

Re fermentation in the bottle of 1g of sugar gives 0.5 g of alcohol and 0.5 g of CO2, to be taken into account in addition to the previous calculation.

Beer alcohol content measurement

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beer-alcohol-content-measurement

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All About Cosmetic The Beauty Essentials

All About  Cosmetic  The Beauty Essentials

 

A cosmetic is a substance or mixture intended to be brought into contact with various superficial parts of the human body, in particular the epidermis, the hair and hair systems, the nails, the lips, the external genitals, the teeth and the oral mucosa. , in view, exclusively or mainly, to clean, protect, perfume, maintain in good condition, modify their appearance or “correct” the smell.

 Cosmetic Beauty Essentials

Cosmetics are hygiene and beautification products that remain superficial in their actions.

More generally, cosmetic is the art of embellishing things without transforming their intrinsic nature. The term is for example used in computer science to designate the result of a treatment by an operation that changes the appearance of the result (presentation, order of elements …) without changing the data.

We talk about cosmetic work when something must undergo a presentation treatment without being deeply modified from the dermis or the body … Cosmetics modify the appearance with superficial products, make-up, odors, hygiene, cleanliness, etc.

In the first century, Nero and Poppea thinned their skin with ceruse (lead carbonate, very toxic) and chalk, emphasized their eyes with kohl (containing toxic lead), and enhanced their complexion. their lips with red (toxic when it came to cinnabar).It is with the return of the crusades that makeup seems to have spread in Northern Europe; From the fourteenth century, noblemen used moisturizer, foundation, hair dye and perfume, and as early as the eighteenth century cosmetics were used in all social classes.

In time, cosmetics have varied according to the modes and raw materials available. Some recipes like Galen’s cold cream are still used today’s, other recipes are almost abandoned like mouthwashes with urine. Certain products which are very dangerous for health (including the famous white lead, a factor in lead poisoning) have nevertheless been widely used; until the beginning of the nineteenth century, most European and North American cosmetics contain lead.

In the twentieth century and especially in the twenty-first century, industrialization and discoveries are changing the face of cosmetology: synthetic perfumes, petroleum derivatives, synthetic surfactants and emulsion stabilizers. These new ingredients as well as complex formulations made by researchers characterize modern cosmetics, which have benefited for their wide dissemination from the advent of advertising.

Natural cosmetics.

Recently, we have seen the development of “organic” or “natural” cosmetic products. The characteristics allowing the use of these qualifiers were the subject of long discussions. The name “Bio”

Browse our latest catalogue on Cosmetic Beauty Essentials

 

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Advice in choosing natural wigs or synthetic wigs

Synthetic wigs or Natural Wigs?

Even before the fall of your hair and the beginning of your cancer treatments, it is often advisable to choose your wig to get used to the change. Many factors come into play such as the price, the cut, the color, the brand but also the composition of the hair – synthetic or natural. For all those who have not yet made the choice of their wig, here is a stipulation that will give you the keys in hand to assess the advantages and disadvantages of these two types of hair prostheses.

For any other information concerning the choice or the maintenance of your wigs find also our tips in the advice of comfort.

 

Synthetic wigs

Advantages: –

·         Synthetic wigs are often very good value for money. Less expensive than authentic hair, they nowadays offer a very realistic representation.

·         The guarantee of a cut always well hair-dressed.  Practical for those who do not like spending long minutes to take care of their hair or who do not have the desire during the duration of their treatments.

·         They are often considered lighter than natural hair wigs which provides greater comfort.

·         The synthetic models offer a greater choice of colors allowing for example to choose an original color or a model very close to your initial shade.

Disadvantages:-

  • The rendering may be less natural for synthetic wigs of poor quality especially in terms of thickness or shine of the hair.
  • The shelf life is a little shorter for a synthetic hair prosthesis because it can be used from 10 to 18 months.
  • The inability to change the cut or color of your wig can be embarrassing for those who like to change their look. The prohibition to approach sources of heat also requires some precautions although new fibers now allow some models to resist.

 

Advice in choosing natural wigs or synthetic wigs

Natural wigs

Advantages:

  • Because of the genuineness of the hair, the rendering of natural wigs is more convincing although the dissimilarity on this point is becoming weaker because of innovations in synthetic fibers.
  • A natural hair wig offers a wide fashioning ingenuity – blow drying, straightening, curls or you can give free lead to your imagination and change your design every day.
  • Its lifespan is more important because a natural wig can be worn for one to two years.

Disadvantages:-

  • The price of natural hair is much more expensive than synthetic fibers; this remains the first difficulty to the purchase of this range of models.
  • The care taken in the maintenance of natural hair prosthesis plays a big role in its lifespan. It is necessary to often comb your hair to regularly maintain your wig by applying balms, to gently comb the hair to prevent the hair from getting damaged. Buy Online Natural Or Synthetic Wigs – Free Shipping

 

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Synthetic wigs or Natural Wigs?

Natural wigs synthetic wigs

Even before the fall of your hair and the beginning of your cancer treatments, it is often advisable to choose your wig to get used to the change. Many factors come into play such as the price, the cut, the color, the brand but also the composition of the hair – synthetic or natural. For all those who have not yet made the choice of their wig, here is a stipulation that will give you the keys in hand to assess the advantages and disadvantages of these two types of hair prostheses.

For any other information concerning the choice or the maintenance of your wigs find also our tips in the advice of comfort.

 

Natural wigs synthetic wigs

Advantages: –

·         Synthetic wigs are often very good value for money. Less expensive than authentic hair, they nowadays offer a very realistic representation.

·         The guarantee of a cut always well hair-dressed.  Practical for those who do not like spending long minutes to take care of their hair or who do not have the desire during the duration of their treatments.

·         They are often considered lighter than natural hair wigs which provides greater comfort.

·         The synthetic models offer a greater choice of colors allowing for example to choose an original color or a model very close to your initial shade.

Disadvantages:-

  • The rendering may be less natural for synthetic wigs of poor quality especially in terms of thickness or shine of the hair.
  • The shelf life is a little shorter for a synthetic hair prosthesis because it can be used from 10 to 18 months.
  • The inability to change the cut or color of your wig can be embarrassing for those who like to change their look. The prohibition to approach sources of heat also requires some precautions although new fibers now allow some models to resist.

 

Advice in choosing natural wigs synthetic wigs

Natural wigs

Advantages:

  • Because of the genuineness of the hair, the rendering of natural wigs is more convincing although the dissimilarity on this point is becoming weaker because of innovations in synthetic fibers.
  • A natural hair wig offers a wide fashioning ingenuity – blow drying, straightening, curls or you can give free lead to your imagination and change your design every day.
  • Its lifespan is more important because a natural wig can be worn for one to two years.

Disadvantages:-

  • The price of natural hair is much more expensive than synthetic fibers; this remains the first difficulty to the purchase of this range of models. [ Natural wigs synthetic wigs ]
  • The care taken in the maintenance of natural hair prosthesis plays a big role in its lifespan. It is necessary to often comb your hair to regularly maintain your wig by applying balms, to gently comb the hair to prevent the hair from getting damaged. Buy Online Natural Or Synthetic Wigs – Free Shipping

 

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Burglary: Are The Protection Systems Effective?

Blog: Home Security Alarm Companies Reviews

The number of burgled houses does not diminish, but contrarily it increases. To avoid this damage to their property, the responsible household heads try every mean to equip themselves. But do the security systems used really protect them?

Blog: Home Security Alarm Companies Reviews
_________________________________________

Based on the anxious statistics (5.20 burglaries in 2010 per 1,000 inhabitants), what attitude should be adopted? Should we turn our home into a replica of Fort Knox? Are the burglary protections, whether mechanical (armored door, A2P lock, etc.) or electronic (alarm, remote monitoring system …) effective? Yes, for the wise consumers who massively equip massively with security devices.  In 2010, 40% of households had a digital code or camera; 45%, an armored door; 8.80%, an alarm; 10.80% benefited from the presence of a guardian and 23.30% had a dog, according to a study by INSEE (1) on the survey “framework of life and security”. Yet, studying this same analysis, one can reasonably have some mistrust about the effectiveness of these protections.

Shields and alarms have no effect on the flight rate

Home Security Alarm Companies Reviews

Considering all burglaries and attempts, there are no statistically significant effects on whether or not to possess security equipment,” says Cyril Rizk, head of statistics at the National Observatory of Statistics. With the exception of the presence of a guard which tends to lower the risk slightly. These are other criteria that play: first, to live in an area where there have already been burglaries. Then have a high standard of living, the 10% of the most affluent households are more exposed, finally, those who live in the city. This analysis, however, deserves to be refined.  If these criteria undoubtedly influence the probability of being robbed, regardless of whether or not they are equipped, this does not necessarily mean that the devices used are completely ineffective. Certainly, households who protect themselves are no less victims of burglaries or attempted robberies. But the study also shows that individuals are equipped more if they have knowledge of burglaries in their entourage, declares Cyril Rizk. We can therefore wonder if those who equip themselves are not so exposed, hence the relative effectiveness of protections.

The traditional alarm – The principle

Home Security Alarm Companies Reviews

Contactors on the doors and windows (perimeter protection) as well as one or more movement detectors placed at strategic locations (volumetric protection) are reliable for identifying intrusions. In case of an alarm, they warn the central unit that triggers the siren.  It can also, if necessary, start recording the images taken by the cameras notify the owner by email or SMS and even alert a monitoring company that can dispatch an agent on the spot.

The installation.

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In the vast majority of cases, the various elements connect wirelessly to the central unit, with a protocol specific to the manufacturer or WIFI. There are also wired models that do not require maintenance (no battery to change) and are not subject to interference waves, but the complexity of their installation makes them interesting only when the protection system is
planned and carried out  prior to the construction of the house.

Daily use

The activation and deactivation of the alarm is usually done by dialing a code on a keypad or a remote control.  As for the settings, they are made from the central. This kind of alarm often requires the subscription of a monthly subscription. Depending on the type of alarm and the configuration of the premises, it is often better to call on a professional alarm technician.

 


Home Security Alarm to avoid intrusions

Back to the fourth century BC there was first evidence that alarms ever used in the house.  The legend tells us that there were some geese giving an alert in the middle of the night. That alert has outwitted the plans of the Gauls who sought to attack the Romans who were confined in a fortress on the Capitol. Today, much more advanced electronic systems exist. So, there are door and window alarms that sound during an intrusion. Without forgetting that the wireless motion detector, outdoor sirens, or camera-related home alarms are some of the most common security systems and are becoming most essential for the household. Powered by a remote control, a code or a GSM application, coupled with home automation systems, they adapt to your needs. You can either manage only alerts and monitoring or you are supported by a video surveillance service provided by an external company.

Blog: Home Security Alarm Companies Reviews

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SAVEONLINEMART Home Security & alarm TEAM